Head to Toe

When To Use Hard Wax

From brows to Brazilians, hard wax is the way to go. Hard wax is perfect for waxing smaller areas such as brows, lips, chins, underarms, bikinis, hairlines and toes. This wax is gentler on the skin because it shrink-wraps around the hairs allowing the roots to be pulled without lifting the skin. It also is excellent for removing shorter hairs. Hard wax has less contact on the skin than strip wax and is a “non-directional” wax. This means it can be applied in any direction regardless of the pattern of hair growth. It is also an excellent choice for removing shorter hairs. To take out shorter hairs, apply the wax against the way the hair is laying so you can lift the hairs up and embed them into the wax. This process is gentle, and depending on how delicate your client’s skin is, hard wax usually can be applied and removed without causing irritation when reapplied to a previously waxed area if necessary.

Facial Waxing

For unwanted facial hair, wax only the brows, lip and chin, not the vellus (peach fuzz) hair, unless the client has extremely dark, deep-rooted hair and she has had it removed with no adverse reactions in the past. If the latter is the case, then be sure to use a high frequency facial wand upon completion of the waxing to help kill bacteria and prevent breakouts. The high frequency wand with its germicidal effects can also be used on the smaller areas such as the brows and lip.

Arm waxing has become very popular in recent years. Clients wishing to wax their arms should be cautioned as this area may be prone to small pimples if it has never waxed before. The hair on the arms generally grows down and curves around the arm, so make sure you follow the hair growth pattern and remove in the opposite direction. There are several different options for positioning your client to help you wax in this way with little discomfort. You might have your sitting upright on the treatment table or have you and your client seated in a chair while propping your client’s arm on the treatment table arranging her arm so that it is comfortable for her yet with enough latitude for you to work comfortably. Just as with the bikini area, have your client hold her own skin taught to prevent bruising and irritation.

Safe is Better

When waxing special occasion clients, it is not the time to experiment with a new brow shape or a full Brazilian, if they have never dared to be bare. Your client should be comfortable with her look. Any changes should be gradual and tried ahead of time. For example, if she has never had a bikini wax try a regular one first, about a month later leave a “landing strip” and progressively move toward the full Brazilian.

Be sure to warn bikini-waxing clientsabout premenstrual sensitivity approximatelyone week prior to their cycle.Avoid bikini-waxing altogether duringthe menstrual cycle.

Strip or soft wax should be used onthe larger areas such as arms or legs.Although waxing is a form of exfoliation,ask your client to exfoliate in theshower with an ayate cloth prior to waxing.The ayate cloth is a natural fibergrown, harvested and woven in centralMexico. Made from the agave cactusplant, this gentle washcloth expandswhen wet, yet is mildew resistant, machinewashable and can last up to ayear. Scrubbing with an ayate cloth isan excellent way to revitalize the skinwhile preventing ingrown hairs that frequentlyoccurs after waxing legs andthe bikini region.

Every client’s hair grows at differentrates but generally three to four weeks’worth of growth should give you amplelength of hair to work with. The hairlength should be a minimum of 1/8inch but ¼ inch is preferable. Suggestthat your clients come in about 4 daysbefore the special event, allowing anyredness or bumps to subside before thebig event. If a client has decided to doa full body wax, you may suggest thatthey do it in two separate sessions, asit can be a very time consuming andtedious process for both the client andesthetician.

Word to the Wise

Thoroughly review client consultationforms for contra-indicators such asAccutane™ and blood thinners. Alsocheck for topical products like Tretinoin and AHAs that can thin the skin. Donot use the high frequency wand onpregnant clients or who have a historyof heart disease or a pacemaker. Bemindful of the client’s previous waxingexperiences (or lack thereof) andtake note of allergies.

Special Event Packages

Many salons and spas of all sizes offerdiscounts for groups such as bridalparties. Try offering brides half offher services if she brings in a minimumof four others in her bridal party.She may even bring in her groom fora back or chest wax!

Unfortunately, even the simplestof events or special occasions takestime, planning and preparation. Withsome foresight and guidance, youcan help make your client’s specialday extra smooth!