Melt-Proof Summer Brows

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The Trick of the Trade

Two important elements of this powder brow technique are the needles used and the blending of pigments. Together, they play a crucial role in controlling shading to achieve a result that is tailored specifically to each individual. Every person has their own unique hair color and eyebrow makeup preference, so one pigment alone will not result in a perfect match. By mixing several different pigments together, you can achieve a look that is much more natural and realistic.

With what is referred to in the industry as “machine shading,” the trick is to use a combination of different needles to create a pixelated shadow. The resulting shadow adds a slight depth to the eyebrow without the harshness of hard, bold lines. The combination of needles plus the use of custom-blended pigments are what make this realistic look achievable.

Down to The Nitty-Gritty

Begin the procedure by measuring the brows and mapping out a shape that is flattering to your client’s face. Use a selection of measurement tools to make this process simpler and more precise, such as ratio calipers and adhesive eyebrow rulers. When working out the perfect eyebrow shape, precision is essential. After this is done, check in to see if any adjustments need to be made.

Moving on from the brow mapping process, begin to blend your pigments to create a shade that suits your client’s needs. The majority of customers who come in for this service desire a color that matches their makeup powder or pencil, which usually ends up being a bit lighter than their natural hair color. Of course, if the client would like something darker, this can be achieved too.

Once your pigments are blended, and the final color has been agreed upon, set up your needles and begin to shade in the eyebrows. Depending on the hair type of your client, work in a gradient that complements the existing brow. Your goal should be to add dimension to the eyebrow, while still maintaining a softness that flatters the face.

Keep in mind that pigment is not implanted in the dermal layer, but in the basal layer of the epidermis. Because of this, there is less trauma to the skin, and you can maintain greater control over the pigment deposits. A topical numbing agent can be used, but the process itself is relatively painless for most people.

Overall, it takes about an hour to shade in both eyebrows fully. Once you have finished, check back with your client to make sure they are happy with the results and to see if they would like any adjustments. When this is done, the powder brow application is complete, and the healing process can begin.

The Healing Process

Newly machine-shaded eyebrows will shed for around seven to ten days after the powder brow treatment, and this is completely normal. When it comes to aftercare, it is essential to recommend to clients that they keep the eyebrow area clean and moisturized, with as little contact with water as possible until the shedding process is over.

As far as topical treatments go, send your clients home with a natural aftercare product. These products typically contain ingredients that are soothing to the skin, such as shea butter and coconut oil. It is important to stress that clients do not use petrolatum-based products like Vaseline, or antibiotic ointments like Neosporin.

Of course, showering and washing your face are both necessary practices, and a small amount of water will not negatively affect the healing process. It is important to express to your clients that the color of the brows will fade in time, and are at their darkest the first week after the initial application.

Once the shedding process has finished, it takes roughly four to six weeks for the pigment to settle fully. In this time, clients should notice that their eyebrows have slightly lightened in color, but maintain a powdery, filled in look. This time frame is consistent amongst the majority of individuals who receive powder brow treatments, so make sure to stress the longevity of the procedure.

Powder brow clients typically do not need to return for a touch up until at least eight to twelve weeks after their first session – although this time frame depends on pigment retention, how much was used, and how each individual responds to the healing process.

• How long is this service?

The full powder brow service lasts between 2 to 2.5 hours, including measuring and preparing brow shape, selecting and mixing pigments, procedure (1hr.), and final adjustments

• How long is the healing time?

Shedding lasts around 7 to 10 days. After that, it takes about 4 to 6 weeks for the pigment to settle.

• How long before a touch-up?

Powder brows should be touched up 8 to 12 weeks after healing is complete.

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