Hydrating or Hype?

Understanding the Basics: What’s the Difference? 

Before diving into their hydrating potential, it’s helpful to understand what distinguishes a mist, toner, and essence. Mists are usually lightweight sprays meant to refresh the skin or enhance absorption of other products.Toners were traditionally astringent, alcohol-based formulas used to “shrink” pores and remove residue. Modern formulations, however, are often gentler and more hydrating. Essences are lightweight, water-based treatments often found in Korean and Japanese skincare routines. They usually contain active ingredients designed to hydrate, brighten, or prep the skin for serums.
 

While all three sit in the “watery” step of a skincare routine, they serve different purposes and not all of them truly hydrate. 

What Does “Hydrating” Really Mean? 

Hydration refers to the skin’s water content. Hydrating products attract and bind water to the skin, usually through humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe vera, panthenol, or polyglutamic acid. If a product doesn’t contain these types of ingredients, it’s unlikely to deliver lasting hydration. 

This is where many products fall short. Some mists and toners are nothing more than scented water with little-to-no humectants,leaving the skin feeling fresh momentarily, but actually contributing to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) if not followed by occlusion. 

The Problem With “Water-Only” Mists 

A refreshing mist feels great on a hot day or in a steamy treatment room, but water alone evaporates quickly, and as it evaporates, it can pull moisture out of the skin with it. This is especially problematic in dry climates or air-conditioned environments, where hydration evaporates faster than it can be replenished. 

To avoid dehydrating the skin, look for mists that include hydrating agents like: 

• Sodium hyaluronate
• Beta-glucan
• Rose hydrosol
• Cucumber extract
• Niacinamide (bonus: it also supports the skin barrier)
   

If you love using mists in your facial services or daily routine, always follow with a serum or moisturizer to lock in the hydration. 

Are Toners Still Necessary? 

Toners have come a long way from the harsh, alcohol-laden formulas of the ‘90s. Today, many toners are packed with skin-loving ingredients that help balance pH, soothe inflammation, and prep the skin to absorb serums more effectively. 

For dehydrated or barrier-compromised clients, a hydrating toner can act like a primer for moisture, increasing the skin’s ability to hold water. Look for formulations with: 

• Aloe vera
• Rose water
• Hyaluronic acid
• Panthenol
• Urea
   

Avoid toners with witch hazel, alcohol, or high concentrations of essential oils for dry or sensitive skin types. These may offer a temporary feeling of tightness or cleanliness, but often lead to irritation or long-term dehydration. 

Essences: The Unsung Heroes of Hydration 

Essences are often overlooked in Western routines, but they can be one of the most effective steps for long-term hydration, especially when layered correctly. Lighter than a serum but richer than a toner, essences deliver active ingredients deeply without overwhelming the skin. 

Many essences are formulated with fermented ingredients, amino acids, and gentle hydrators that improve skin texture, barrier function, and elasticity over time. Their watery texture allows for multiple layers to be applied—a technique known as “skin flooding” or “the 7-skin method”—to build hydration in thin, breathable layers. 

For clients struggling with dehydration, fine lines, or dullness, incorporating a well-formulated essence can create a visible glow and improve skin’s plumpness. 

Are They Worth It? 

Yes,with the right formula. Mists, toners, and essences can absolutely hydrate, but only if they contain proper humectants and are used strategically. Alone, they may give a momentary boost, but when layered and sealed with moisturizers or serums, they become powerful tools in any esthetician’s toolkit.