Melanin in Mind

Understanding the behavior of melanocytes in skin of color is crucial. Any irritation, abrasion, or inflammation can stimulate melanocyte activity, resulting in dark spots. That’s why low and slow is the golden rule. Acids like mandelic, lactic, and phytic are preferred because they are larger molecules, penetrate more slowly, and are less likely to trigger inflammation. Enzyme peels are also excellent options for gentle exfoliation.

TCA, glycolic, and high-percentage AHA peels should be approached with caution. Even when tolerated during treatment, these acids can cause delayed pigmentation issues if the barrier is compromised. Patch testing and thorough intake are essential when working with skin of color.

Pre-treatment protocols often include melanogenesis inhibitors like kojic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, and niacinamide. These reduce the risk of pigment development during and after exfoliation. Post-treatment care should prioritize hydration, barrier repair, and continued pigment suppression.

Cultural competency also means understanding client concerns and expectations. Clients may not always be familiar with exfoliation or may have had negative experiences with chemical peels. Building trust, setting realistic expectations, and explaining the long-game strategy of gentle, progressive exfoliation is key.

Finally, consider the whole picture—lifestyle, sun exposure, hormone fluctuations, and genetics all influence how skin of color responds to exfoliation. Estheticians who invest time in understanding these factors will deliver better outcomes and build deeper client relationships.

Exfoliating skin of color is not about avoiding actives, it’s about mastering their use with care, confidence, and respect for the rich diversity of skin we are privileged to treat.