October 2007’s Featured Archive Article:

Fall is a transitional season for skin. As temperatures and humidity levels begin to drop, there is less moisture in the air to hydrate skin and keep it looking supple. A fall complexion also wears the remaining signs of summer’s toll: dull, lifeless skin brought on by excessive exposure to heat, humidity, pollution and ultraviolet radiation; and hyperpigmentation that stubbornly remains when the tan has faded away. All this distress on the body’s largest organ signals a need for rejuvenating skin back to its pre-summer condition.

One of the most convenient and effective methods of skin rejuvenation is chemical exfoliation.

Chemical peels enhanced with ingredients such as L-lactic acid, TCA and retinol, stimulate keratolytic activity in the epidermis and hasten the turnover of the dry, depleted surface skin cells. Once fresher, more receptive cells are exposed, natural tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid, azelaic acid and L-arbutin can penetrate more effectively to inhibit further melanocyte activity. These skin brighteners can reduce the appearance of dyschromias brought on by overexposure to the summer sun, and restore a more even skin tone.

Chemical peels also allow better absorption of topical antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, tocopherol, bilberry and grapeseed extracts needed to strengthen skin’s defenses against environmental degradation and to stimulate synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers. The following advanced protocol combines the use of two superficial peeling solutions, one in a liquid base, and one in a cream base. They are enhanced with natural skin brighteners, antioxidants and cell-rejuvenating agents to produce a smoother, firmer surface texture. Because of the active nature of these ingredients, it is important to note that this protocol should only be performed on clients who have experienced a professional chemical peel with good results.

Step 1

Cleanse the skin thoroughly with a mild facial wash. The facial wash should effectively remove all traces of makeup and impurities while leaving the skin’s pH levels balanced. Rinse.

Step 2

Degrease the face using a non-acetone, AHA-based toner on a cotton pad. This will help remove any remnant oils and superficial dead skin cells. Degreasing agents may cause tingling in some clients. Allow skin to dry and ask client to rate comfort on a scale of one to 10, with 10 being the most uncomfortable.

Step 3

Using a fresh, cotton pad, apply the first peeling solution containing a blend of TCA, lactic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid and L-arbutin in even layers, as needed, allowing about three minutes in between layers.

Step 4

Once again gauge client’s comfort using the one-to-10 scale. Fan the skin to keep client cool between layers. The skin will have a slightly tacky feeling.

Step 5

Dispense the second peel cream blend of lactic acid, retinol and antioxidants into gloved hands and spread gently over the treatment area, keeping the application thin and even. Allow peel cream to penetrate and dry.

Step 6

Apply treatment serums over the entire treatment area and allow them to penetrate. Look for antioxidants, retinol, L-ascorbic acid and tocotrienols to help repair sun damage; tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid, L-arbutin and licorice extract to reduce appearance of brown spots and mottled skin tone; and epidermal growth factors that boost hydration within cell walls and stimulate cell proliferation.

Step 7

Gently apply a peptide-based eye treatment cream to the periorbital area. Peptides provide an effective support for stressed skin. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 will help reduce wrinkle depth by stimulating synthesis of types I and IV collagen. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 decreases inflammation and puffiness, and dipeptide-2 assists in improving lymphatic circulation to minimize the appearance of dark circles.

Step 8

Apply a combination of a calming hydrator and broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 25. Look for ingredients such as borage seed oil and evening primrose oil, both rich in gamma linolenic acid (GLA) which is necessary for strengthening immune function and increasing moisture content. Sunscreen ingredients should provide protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. Sunscreen should also be applied to lips and neck area for added protection.

Step 9

Finish treatment with a liberal application of a peptide-based lip balm. Ingredients should include collagen-stimulating peptides such as palmitoyl oligopeptide to improve lip smoothness and resiliency, hyaluronic acid to attract and retain moisture, and compounds from tomato and barley extracts, which are clinically proven to reduce flaking and lip fissures.

About Margaret Ancira

Margaret Ancira, founder and president of PCA Advanced Skin Care Systems, is a licensed esthetician and an internationally renowned chemical peel educator. Her patented chemical peel formulations aid in treating a variety of skin conditions including acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and sun damage. PCA Professional Products and PCA SKIN Clinical Care Products are used by select clinical practices in 60 countries. For more information, please call 1.877.PCA-SKIN or visit www.pcaskin.com.

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